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HOW TO CHASE PIPES INTO A WALL – Plumbing Tips

HOW TO CHASE PIPES INTO A WALL - Plumbing Tips


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This video covers how to chase pipes into a wall or floor screed. Enjoy!

Today we are looking into screeding, I also have to sink pipes into a wall. Now, this was suggested to us by a lovely man on Twitter, I think he was called “disco dimmer” or something like that. His question’s appearing in the screen below me right now. So, anyway, as you can see, we’ve got lovely chase here, it’s been chased down lovingly by Gavin. And if you look closely, we can see, the more you start, this is basically coming out with a grinder. And I’m sure all along, he wore gloves, and he wore goggles and mask. And basically, he’s ground it out, ground it out of there. And then used an SDS router or a chisel, to just gut all this all out, and then sweep all that away. We look at the floor, we can see that he’s made a lovely little screen out just here. We get down, and have a quick look, we’re gonna see that it’s quite deep screen. So we’ve got good sort of, 40 or 50 mil there. And also, if you look here as well, we’ve got a pipe in here. You see, that’s nice and deep there as well. We’ve got a hell of a lot of room. So the thing you’ve got to think about, that’s really important when it comes to sinking pipes into the wall, is obviously the depth of the wall itself, how you’re gonna fix the pipe, so when someone comes over to render this wall, or plaster it or anything like that, that the pipes aren’t gonna move. And also, really, really, importantly, there how you’re going to try to insulate your copper pipe. Now, there’s kind of two ways you can attack it. You can either insulate it to stop the heat getting out, which is obviously a brilliant way, and also kills two birds with one stone. This is very important that the concrete, or any kind of render, doesn’t touch the copper itself, ’cause it can rot through it. So, hopefully, depending on the depth of the screed, we should be allowed to fit in this nice 15 mil by 30 mil wall. And it’s still got enough depth to then be able to render over that. Sometimes you’re trying to sink pipe into a single brace stop wall, which is only as much as four inches deep sometimes. When that happens, you’re gonna want to dig out a pipe there, and then basically gaffer tape up the pipe. We find that that helps to stop anything kind of climbing onto the pipe when it’s drying out.
Basically, what we’re gonna do is, I’ve got some double clips. We’re gonna pop a few double clips in down here, get our pipes laid out in the bottom, and basically get our pipes up in the thing, ready for Gavin to come over here in a few days’ time, to render up, and then we’ll be fitting the radiator back on in a couple of weeks. So yeah, let’s do that now, and I hope you enjoy it. We’ll have just a quick look here, at the depth that we’ve got. See if we can give him enough clearance. I mean, that is lovely. So we can get a nice pipe round there, we’re gonna screen over the top of that, absolute treat. This is going up through the wall, and then out at the top, it’s gonna elbow sort of back over up in the loft space. Just gonna put the elbow there now. Pop that through on up. Ah, look at that. Huge amount of space, there, now. Well, it’s now just a matter of getting our lovely insulation on. So we’re gonna get a bit on like that, now where the clips are, we’re not gonna put any on, okay? Because the width of the insulation, when there’s two next to each other, is quite tight.
Okay? So now we’re gonna do that.
So, then, like I was saying, there are other ways. Okay, if you’ve got an issue with depth, okay, you haven’t got the room. Now, let’s say, the old days what they used to do, is they’d actually get newspaper and wrap it around it. Anything to stop the concrete actually touching the pipe while it’s wet, okay? And also touching it later on as well, ’cause it does go through pipe. I’ve always found a really good way to do that, is basically, gaffer tape. Gaffer tape is, you pop it down here like so, wrap it around. Then you know now, that nothing’s gonna actually get on your pipe. And the same goes for the floor. Now, if I were to wrap as well, a couple of wraps around, and make sure there’s a couple little ridges as well. So, it’s really sort of free to move as it wants. And once that’s there, and all that, there’s no way that’s ever gonna cling on there, or anything like that. There’s a nice little bit of room in there, as well, it sort of protects the pipe a little bit, so that’s, I said, the other way. So, a closer look at that.

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Ep6 Wash Basin Install – Install Waste Pipe And Test – Plumbing Tips

Ep6 Wash Basin Install - Install Waste Pipe And Test - Plumbing Tips


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Hot to install a wash basin waste pipe and check for leaks. Include how to use solvent weld waste fittings and plastic waste pipe compression fittings. For more information visit our website at

Word, and welcome to this plumberparts.co.uk video. This is the last video of this particular set of episodes, all about how to install a wash basin. If you want to know anything about the previous things, go back through the videos, and you’ll see them there. This particular bit is about installing the waste. It’s the last part, so let’s get all that done, and hopefully have it running by the end of the video.
Right, so here’s our outlet waste, here. We’ve got a pop-in waste that we did earlier. We’ve got all our pipes in that we did earlier. Our two valves, and here’s the waste outlet, here. Let’s first have a look at the sealing components of the trap. This is known as a P-trap. So the sealing part here, you’ve got a rubber ring, and that seals on the bottom of this metal thread, here. But it also sits around the collar, in there. Generally, you aren’t to take this off, but I’m only doing it for demonstration purposes. So that will sit up on there like that, and seal really well on there.
On this end, we’ve got the compression fitting end. And how this works, is you have a slip collar. When you’re tightening up this nut, if this slip collar wasn’t here, it would drag on this rubber bit here, which is the bit that causes the seal. So the slip collar goes in there, the rubber flat seal goes in there, your part will go in and around that inner circle, around there, like that. The seal sits round in there like that, and that’s where it causes a seal. The slip collar goes on there, the nut goes on there. And that tightens up, and causes a great seal.
A few of the other things, I’m actually gonna glue things, today, and solvent weld once, alright? If you want to know how to use those, go back to our video page, and we’ve got a video up there for you on how to use solvent weld fittings for waste.
So, the first bit we’re gonna do here, anyway, is attach this P-trap, and then we’ve got a rough idea if the bit’s a part we need to cut, and where to put our elbows and stuff to match these two up together. So, let’s pop that up on there. Let’s get that in there like that. Alright, so, what we’re gonna need here, to get this bit done, is two elbows. So, we’ll have one elbow popped on there like that, and we’ll need another one put in here about there. So what I need to do now is cut my pipes to length, glue them in. Get them so they’re popping into
this compression fitting here, tighten that up, wait five minutes for the solvent weld to go off, and then, hopefully, I can turn these two valves on and test for leaks.
Right, are you ready? Are you set? We’re gonna turn it on, and see if it works. No leaks, so far. Oh, yeah! Turn it all the way around. Nice and hot. Cold. Yeah! Pull this old boy, is it up or down? Push it down, oh yeah. There we go. No leaks down here. Nothing at all.
We shut the pipe, and now we test this overflow. It’s gonna over the flow. And that would mean we’re testing our plumber’s mate that we did a few videos ago. It’s feeding it nicely. That’s great. Well, as you can see, all is well. So there you go, it’s all done. The basin, hot works fine, all the waste draining really well, switch over to the two. Nice little mixed tap. Our pop-up waste works well, all of that bit. And it’s all done. I am so happy.
If you need anymore help, or any more advice, visit our website at plumberparts.co.uk. If you feel like we’ve missed anything out, or anything like that, let us know through our comments list, or just message us directly. Remember to subscribe.
Thanks ever so much for watching. I’ll see you soon. Brut-ting! Plumberparts.co.uk – honest reviews and advice.

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How To Fix One Radiator Not Working – Plumbing Tips

How To Fix One Radiator Not Working - Plumbing Tips


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How to fix one radiator if it is not working. Includes the thermostatic radiator valve and lockshield. It also covers air in the radiator and sludge in the radiator.

Today, I’m going to give you a quick bit of advice about how to get your radiator working if only one’s working. Now I’ve seen a few other
videos on the Internet about how to do this, and some of them are plain wrong, and some of them could actually cause leaks in your house if you do it wrong. Here’s the radiator in question. All the other rads in the house are burning hot, the boiler’s on, the pump’s running, and the thermostat in the room’s calling for heat. But this one radiator here isn’t getting hot. We feel these pipes here. There’s no heat coming down here at all, and as I said, all the other radiators are hot in the house. So the first thing we do is check that the lock shield is open. All you need to do is remove the lock shield cap. You’ll find the lock shield valve bit here. Get a set of adjustables on there. Open that fully up. Turn that all the way you can anti-clockwise. Okay, keep going and keep going. Now you never now, now you might find that you’ve got heat coming into the radiator.
To get the earliest affirmative answers to whether there’s heat going into the radiator, instead of feeling the radiator itself at the bottom or the top, feel the two pipes going to it. One will be a flow pipe, and one’ll be a return pipe, and if now you’ve opened up your lock shield, and you feel one of these two pipes getting warm, then you know you’re getting flow. However, that might not have solved your problem. You could still have air in the radiators. The symptoms of air in your radiators are quite simple to describe. If you already have a hot flow and return going to the radiator, if you felt down the radiator, it should be warm at the bottom, and at the top it would be cold. This is always a sign of air being in the rads. But before you get mental trying to bleed all the air out of the radiators, I strongly recommend you turn the boiler and the pump off. Anyway, here’s how you bleed a rad. Right, so here’s how to bleed your radiator. Your boiler and your pump are turned off. Both radiator valves are open. Even though we haven’t looked at the TRV yet, so that could be stuck shut. We’ll look at that in a minute. Just get a little bit of cloth, get your radiator key in there. Open that. Fortunately, you can see we’ve got water there already. Just let that run for a few seconds. That’s great. Now usually when there’s air in there, obviously you have a lot of air coming out before you get to water. Obviously, if the radiator does have air in the top of it, you
will get air coming out. You’ll be able to hear it really easily. It’ll be a nice, slight hiss, and you can control easily the rate at which it comes out using this key. As soon as you get a bit of water come out, just tighten it up, wipe up any excess water that might have spilled on the floor, or something like that. And then you should feel the radiator at the top getting nice and hot. The next problem you can have is the fact that your TRV, or the control head for the radiator, is stuck shut. This is where I’ve seen a few of the other videos on the Internet telling you how to do this sort of thing have gone wrong.
Now, let’s just go over it very slowly, and if you follow our instructions, you should be able to get it working just fine again. If not, we’ll give you a quick guide on how to change a TRV. So here’s the thermostatic radiator valve in question. First thing you need to do is make sure it’s fully turned on. So at the moment, it’s on setting number five out of five. Next, you have to be able to remove the TRV head. Now there’s a few different ways to do this. This one here is just a screw-on collar. Some of the other ones, like by manufacturers like Danfoss have a black plastic lug that you have to pop a screwdriver into, pop that out, and then you just quarter-turn twist it, and it’ll lift off. But this one’s a collar-screw one. You put that there, and that means there we can reveal the head here. Now this one I know works. The way you can figure that one out is you just press this pin down like that. Some of them, the pin will be stuck down. On this particular type, the best way to do this is to, while it’s stuck down, just pressing it a little bit and see if that’ll bring it up. The best way to deal with these is to be gentle. Don’t hit them with a hammer. Now this particular model won’t have that problem but if you got a tradition pin-type TRV, if you hit it with a hammer, often the pin will just fly out and you’ll have a lovely fountain of water just come out. The best way to deal with the pin types, is to get a very small set of long-nosed pliers.

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How Condensing Boilers Work – Plumbing Tips

How Condensing Boilers Work - Plumbing Tips


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A brief video about condensing boilers. How they work. Why they are more efficient compared to conventional boilers. Why they are green and save energy and money. For more information visit our website at

This video is relevant to Oil and Gas.

Hello and welcome to this week’s plumberparts.co.uk video. Today I’m gonna tell you all about condensing boilers.
For the purposes of today’s video we’re going to use Grant Vortex Combi condensing boiler. This is the outdoor model as well. All I’m gonna show you in this video is the burner at the bottom, the primary heat exchanger and the secondary, condensing heat exchanger. The first thing you should know when comparing a condensing boiler to a standard conventional boiler is that the heat input is very much the same at the bottom. Roughly 250 to 350 degrees C. This is the burner, we’re just gonna pop out the bottom now. This part here is what inputs the heat at the start of the heating process. This burner here is likely to be fitted with a small nozzle that atomizes the oil, much like putting your finger over the end of a hose. There’s two electrodes that light that oil and that’s what inputs the heat into the combustion chamber and the heat exchanger for transferring heat into the water. Now I’ve got the burner out, we can have a look at the primary heat exchanger. To do this remove this front panel just here. So first we have the primary heat exchanger which is set up in a group of baffles, that all slide out when they need to be cleaned. Burner fan is down in here so hot air, which is heated by the burner at the bottom, goes though these convector fins and tries to keep the heat in this area for as long as possible to allow the hot water to take heat away and off to the radiators. Let’s take a closer look at the primary heat exchanging baffles of this boiler. Right, so here we have the primary baffle area just here. Now remember, most boilers, especially quite old ones, the baffles are really just a metal plate usually just about three of them they’re at a slight angle one, two, three and then that flue gas goes off out to atmosphere never to be gotten back again. Often at about 250 degrees flue temperature.
Have another look at these here, this is only the start of the heat exchanging possibilities. So firstly the hot gases come up through here, round here, up through this small hole here, like so, goes round this part here. Up here, and is again forced round another area. Round here, around the back here, up here, round here, round here and then finally out the front where it then goes up to the condensing chamber. You have two columns like this so straightaway without there even being a condensing part the actual standard primary heat exchanger is already miles more efficient. Because it keeps the heat in there for as long as possible to allow the water a chance to collect heat from that and take it off to the radiators. So, heat comes out of our two little holes at the top goes around, through this condensing area. Each one of these tubes points downwards and has a small, spiral fin that goes down the middle. As it condenses it goes down, causes condensed droplets. taken away in a drain and disposed of safely. So that’s the first major difference between a conventional boiler and a condensing boiler. Most condensing boilers are gonna be more modern and the primary heat exchanging area at the bottom is gonna be better designed nd have much better capability in taking heat away into the water and off to your radiators.
Secondly, we have, obviously the top part is the condensing chamber. How they work that’s different. Most conventional boilers have a flue that comes out the top of the burner and a return that comes in the bottom, because generally the bottom is colder. So, cold water comes back from the heating system in the return, is heated up through the chamber, and then goes out through the flue, back off to the rads. That doesn’t happen with a condensing boiler. The return goes into the
condensing chamber first picking up latent heat from the flue gases. Then it goes in at the bottom of the primary heat exchanger and out.
So effectively you have two heat exchanges instead of one. Right, let’s just slow down for a sec, okay?
We’ll have a quick look firstly of a conventional boiler. So, we have our heat input of 300 degrees at the bottom, our standard baffles, we have our return coming back from the heating system. That water picks up that heat, goes out through the flue 300 degrees starts off around here and we lose about 250 off to atmosphere, out through the flue. A condensing boiler has the same heat input at the bottom has more modern baffles and a condensing chamber on top.

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How Combi Boilers Work – Plumbing Tips

How Combi Boilers Work - Plumbing Tips


This video covers how combi boilers work. We describe how they heat your heating water and your hot water from the taps. The principle is the same for Gas and Oil combi boilers. How they heat water directly on demand and how they can save you money. For more information visit our website at

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Best 24 Hour Plumber in West Hollywood CA

From leaking faucets to ineffective water heating systems and blocked drains, plumbing issues could wreak mayhem at the most troublesome times – and you ought to never feel bothered in your own home. Whatever pipes trouble you could be experiencing, the West Hollywood plumbings at Dad’s Plumbing could give you with an expert service.

We make the service and fixing of your plumbing systems as simple as 123. For 3 decades Dad’s has been offering unrivaled services to residences all across West Hollywoodland. Our plumbers constantly function to earn your system more trusted and also practical, so we can help ensure that you will not need to fret about exactly how your system is operating in the future.

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Not all pipes leaks can be located quickly. While some are quite apparent, others aren’t visible in any way, as they could be taking place inside ceilings, walls, under floorings, or various other locations that you may not discover. Occasionally, you may discover an obvious leak if there is standing water in your washroom or kitchen, yet other times, a leakage may be less visible, such as a wet spot on your wall surface or carpeting or a spot on the sheet rock ceiling in your home.

In the regrettable occasion that you do see a pipes leakage, it is very important to both your spending plan as well as the security of your West Hollywood area residence or building that you have the issue managed quickly and effectively. At Dad’s plumbing, our plumbing experts have the training as well as knowledge to promptly situate as well as repair your leakages to prevent further expenditure or damages to your West Hollywood location residence.

At Dad’s Plumbing, we concentrate on plumbing leak discovery and also area services, along with pipes leak repair work. Utilizing our modern-day pipes devices, our very trained plumbing professionals are able to successfully as well as efficiently find the resource of even the most difficult plumbing leakages, regardless of where it lies in your West Hollywood location house. For more information, visit our West Hollywood water damage page here: http://dadsplumbingandprojectmgmt.com/west-hollywood-water-damage

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We prepare 24 Hours A Day to aid in your emergency. We understand that you can never anticipate when you might experience a pipes emergency. Do not be reluctant to call the pros at Dad’s Plumbing whenever, due to the fact that we react to all West Hollywood area pipes emergency situations, whatever time, day or night!

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At Dad’s Plumbing, we do a wide variety of domestic pipes help West Hollywood area residents. Several of our household plumbing solutions consist of:

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